New Delhi: Following an uproar, Zomato scrapped the green dress code for its “pure veg fleet”. The food-delivery company announced that it would continue to have a fleet for vegetarians but there would not be any on-ground segregation of the fleet. Both the fleets dedicated to vegetarian and non-vegetarian customers will wear the common red colour.

Citing safety of delivery partners as a reason, Zomato CEO Deepinder Goyal said the change will ensure that our red uniform delivery partners are not incorrectly associated with non-veg food and blocked by any RWA (Residents Welfare Association) or society during any special days.

It is important to note that Indian vegetarianism, distinct from veganism, is characterized by an aversion to non-vegetarian food and individuals who consume it and is rooted in a desire for social and physical distance. This sentiment reflects the influence of caste ideology on food preferences, where purity is associated with vegetarianism.

A study cited in The Hindu reveals that Scheduled Castes (SCs) and Scheduled Tribes (STs) have a higher proportion of non-vegetarians compared to other communities. In contrast, Brahmins, among the non-SC/ST population, have the highest prevalence of vegetarianism, surpassing 50%.

The 2020 research paper titled ‘Dirty Food: Racism and Casteism in India’ asserts that a fundamental aspect of Brahmanical authority revolves around controlling and delineating what constitutes clean and unclean food. This Brahmanical food system is established as a societal and cultural standard, aligning with the emotional, spiritual and social dimensions of the nation.

However, this national dietary consciousness primarily caters to the interests of the upper castes. Increasingly, caste-based dietary preferences dictate social exclusions and shape civic sensibilities and interpersonal dynamics, including choices regarding accommodation in urban areas.

While notions of purity and sanctity are defined and upheld by ‘upper’ caste groups, the burden of maintaining this purity often falls on ‘lower’ caste communities such as Dalits.

Lenin Raghuvanshi, a Varanasi-based activist working for Dalit rights, explained how meat eating became a part of the marginalized community’s social system.

“Untouchability is inherently connected with the food. Since Shudras and Dalits were not allowed to mingle with the society, they were left to fend for themselves with the leftovers. Many times, the Dalit community had the responsibility to dispose of carcasses of animals. They used to take the skin off the corpses to make materials or eat the meat, which again added to the notion of them being ‘impure’ because of that,” he explained.

He said people can have their choice; but when it comes to claiming what is ‘pure’ and the superiority attached with it, it then becomes a problem.

“If everyone had an equal footing, the issue would have been different today. Maybe the concept of ‘purity’ would noy have been associated with food,” Raghuvanshi said.

Vegetarians claim they do not eat meat, he said, asking what about the ones at positions of power who “drink the blood of their employees by exploitation”.

Shalin Maria Lawrence, a Dalit scholar and author of ‘The Great Indian Dalit Kitchen’ pointed out that the Zomato CEO, while announcing to shelve the decision through a post on X, used the word “segregation”.

“If we historically trace the word, it will refer to the caste system in Indian context. Casteism has been constitutionally abolished but at the end of the day, the notions of purity and untouchability still exist in the mind of people,” the scholar said.

Talking about the ‘pure veg’ eateries, she said, “If we look into the restaurant businesses, we can understand that the owner can be of any identity, but in most cases of ‘pure veg outlets’, the food is prepared in Brahmanical terms such as not adding garlic or onion by savarna cooks.” 

“Pure food”, the scholar asserted, has always meant food not prepared by Dalits.

One important question being raised by Shalin during the conversation with The Mooknayak was about the imposition of food choices. Even in Tamil Nadu, a state which is generally seen as more liberal, have ‘non-meat’ days which generally take place during festivals.

She states that the Brahminical notion of vegetarian and ‘pure’ food is still being imposed on the citizens while no part of Dalit, Bahujan or the minority religion’s lifestyle has ever been imposed anywhere. According to the scholar, this directly points to the caste hegemony still prevalent in the nation.

Any discussion about the current situation is incomplete without a comment on capitalism. Shalin argues that globalisation was thought to be a solution to all kinds of discrimination, but it did not solve the caste issue. It has adapted itself.

McDonalds in America has beef, but McDonalds in Ayodhya is purely vegetarian. Capitalism wants to utilise the inherent discrimination that exists in society. Tycoons are using the innate discrimination that exists within people to exploit people for business. Capitalistic benefit in India cannot exist without caste.

She shared a personal anecdote. “While working with an IT company, I faced discrimination based on my food choices. I used to eat fish and meat, but my colleagues used to make faces at me and would not sit beside me,” she narrated

Talking about its implications, Shalin observed that many do not go for certain opportunities because they fear being discriminated against, or worse, facing violence for not abiding by certain standards set by people in power.

Many shops, especially the ones selling meat, are owned by Muslims. “Now when the shops are getting closed out of nowhere on certain days, who will be helping them for the lost time and money?” asked the scholar.

Geography Determines Food Choices

The Mooknayak talked to Dr Satish Prakash, who is a Dalit scholar and professor. He explained that religion does not determine one’s diet, but accessibility does. One eats food primarily for sustenance. 

“When it comes to the ‘upper’ castes, even Brahmins from the south, east and northeastern regions are meat eaters,” commented the professor.

“Considering ‘vegetarianism’ to be the epitome of ‘purity’ does not logically make any sense,” Prakash added.

India’s geographical diversity has fostered a varied number of cuisines. According to a study titled ‘Effect of Geographical Factors on Food Habitat of India’ published in the Journal of Nutrition & Food Sciences, India can be divided into four zones: north, south, east and west — each characterized by unique dietary preferences, physical attributes, languages, colors, occupations and cognitive abilities.

The research suggests that the development of the human brain is closely linked to the type of food consumed. For instance, in the coastal areas of the east and west, rice, fish, coconut and vegetables are staples, while in northern India, wheat, rice, corn, pulses, mustard oil, milk and dairy products dominate the diet.

In the east, rice, fish and meat are commonly consumed; whereas, in the west, wheat, rice and pulses are more prevalent. Notably, meat and meat products are consumed by a minority of people in both west and east India.

Food ‘Segregation’ in IIT Bombay

In July 2023, notices declaring “only vegetarians allowed to sit here” were posted in the canteen of hostel 12 on the campus. Similar posters demanding “veg only” were seen across the campus of Indian Institute of Technology (IIT), Bombay.

Students residing in hostels 12, 13 and 14 received emails reserving six seats specifically for vegetarian meals. Following a canteen’s decision to allocate six tables exclusively for vegetarians at the IIT-B campus, a symbolic protest unfolded on September 28, 2023 with four to five students eating meat at one of the designated tables.

Some students supported this action, while others opposed it. On the same day, a small group of three to five students organized a peaceful demonstration in the mess against perceived unfair practices.

They brought non-vegetarian food to the tables marked as “vegetarian-only”. Subsequently, a student-led group, the Ambedkar Periyar Study Circle, tore down the divisive posters. Although many universities offer mess facilities, such instances of segregation are uncommon.

Brahminical Mentality

Nayanthara’s recent film ‘Annapoorani: The Goddess of Food’ has been removed from Netflix, the streaming platform where it was available, due to controversies surrounding allegations of “hurting religious sentiments”.

The uproar arose after a former Shiv Sena leader, Ramesh Solanki, filed a police complaint — claiming that the movie “offended the sentiments of the Hindu community”. The film features Nayanthara in the role of Annapoorani, a character aspiring to be a chef and facing various challenges on her journey.

Annapoorani, depicted as a Brahmin, is shown consuming and preparing meat. Solanki’s complaint labelled the film as “anti-Hindu” and pointed out specific scenes, including one that implies Lord Ram as a “meat eater”. This was enough for political leaders to call the movie anti-Hindu and get it removed from our screens.