Where Men Become Goddesses: A Unique Kerala Temple Ritual

During the final two days of the Kottankulangara Devi temple's 19-day annual festival, men arrive in droves, meticulously adorning themselves in vibrant sarees and intricate makeup.
The transformation is so complete that, as local resident Remya explains, "it's often impossible to tell who is a man or a boy."
The transformation is so complete that, as local resident Remya explains, "it's often impossible to tell who is a man or a boy."
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Kollam- In the lush landscapes of Kollam, Kerala, an extraordinary temple ritual challenges the boundaries of gender and devotion. The Kottankulangara Devi temple hosts a mesmerizing tradition where thousands of men annually transform themselves into women, embodying a profound spiritual practice that blends mythology, faith, and cultural identity.

During the final two days of the temple's 19-day annual festival, men arrive in droves, meticulously adorning themselves in vibrant sarees and intricate makeup. Their mission? To honor the deity through the unique "Kottankulangara Chamayavilakku" ritual, where cross-dressing is believed to be a powerful path to divine blessing.

The ritual's origins are steeped in folklore. Legend speaks of young cowherd boys who would playfully dress as girls, offering flowers and 'kottan' (a local delicacy) to a sacred stone. According to local belief, the goddess herself appeared before one of these boys, transforming a simple game into a sacred tradition that has endured for generations.

Each participant carries a distinctive lamp mounted on a wooden rod, a signature element found exclusively in this temple. Local women enthusiastically assist participants, helping those unfamiliar with draping sarees and applying makeup. The transformation is so complete that, as local resident Remya explains, "it's often impossible to tell who is a man or a boy."

The most spiritually charged moments occur between 2 a.m. and 5 a.m., though the growing popularity means the procession often extends into the evening. More than 10,000 men participate annually, drawn from various backgrounds and faiths, united by a shared belief in the ritual's mystical power to fulfill wishes.

At the heart of the temple stands the original stone deity, which devotees claim has been mysteriously growing over the years – another layer of mystique in this already fascinating tradition.

As dawn breaks and the ritual concludes, participants depart with hope, prayers, and a profound sense of spiritual connection – having momentarily stepped into a different identity to touch the divine.

The transformation is so complete that, as local resident Remya explains, "it's often impossible to tell who is a man or a boy."
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